Centrepins and using them, especially for Barbel Fishing
by Paul Whiteing
I decided to update this article
yet again (now version 3.1), being about four years since the first, in order to
keep the information up to date and relevant as a (hopefully) useful reference,
if you'll excuse my presumption, rather than simply an article. I have added
quite a lot, and amended some of the points and comments that I previously
included as they are less valid now.
Without doubt, there are some
things that others know much more about than I do, so I asked for some help on
these specific topics. I now include some 'guest' contributions from Chris
Plumb, Martin Porter and Alan Tomkins - my sincere thanks to them all for
responding to my request. Also I await a 'special' contribution from Glenn
Smith - my thanks, in anticipation, to him too.
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- introduction
- when and where did I start with centrepins?
- why use a centrepin at all?
- using a centrepin for legering
- using a centrepin for freelining
- using a centrepin for trotting
- casting by pulling line from the rings
- casting "off the side"
- casting with the Wallis cast
- holding a rod and c'pin reel
- loading a c'pin with line
- problems using a c'pin
- additional rod-related information
- mechanics of a c'pin
- types , designs and styles of c'pins
- the c'pins I use are Match Aerial (replicas)
- cleaning and maintenance of Match Aerial (replicas)
- choosing a c'pin - what would you look for?
When and why did I start with centrepins?
Up until the early 70s I
used Mitchell 300 fixed-spool reels. A pal, who was then part of a 'group' who
made/marketed Match Aerial replicas, suggested that I try a c'pin. He used them
extensively on the Lea and on the Royalty and reckoned that it would offer me a
new.........dimension?..............
Well, I bought two (I always buy
in twos), went fishing every day for a week, and gave one a try. Disaster - I
thought that I would never master them. Why? What was I doing wrong? Well
nothing really, it just takes practice but there are some fundamental
principles needed to be sorted out first, and casting was the main one - no
surprise there. It dawned on me that there were basically two ways of casting,
leaving the then 'mysterious' Wallis cast aside for the moment. Either pull
line from the rod/rings with left-hand and cast - I understand this is the
Nottingham Style - or cast 'off-the-side'.
Within that week I learnt
(falteringly) how to cast, I overcame the problems, and never looked back.
Then, once the bait was in the chosen place it was down to playing a fish. What
a feeling, and so different. I was as hooked as my quarry.
With me c'pins are
not a traditional thing or a cult thing - I just use them because I
think they do the job best for me. I fish relatively small rivers (Kennet,
Cherwell, Lea) and c'pins do all I want in most cases. True that casting
at first is nowhere as easy to master, or accomplish, as with fixed-spool
reels, but the main aspect is, I believe, how much more enjoyable and
controlled it is to play a barbel on a c'pin. Some say a c'pin has a soul, well
I'm not sure that word has anything but a romantic sound to it, but I know what
they mean.
So, why use a c'pin at all? There is no mechanical stuff
(gears and suchlike) between you and a fish so you are in direct contact; yes
there is a clutch (it is your thumb/finger) and it is infinitely variable; you
can gain line without pumping (also whilst the rod is 'locked' as is the
expression); a c'pin is a baitrunner (controlled by your thumb/finger) it is
built-in; basically it is a joy to use.
But I know that not all will
agree, nor will they be convinced by reading this or fishing with one. I have a
friend, an experienced barbel fisherman who uses fixed-spools, who recently played and landed
a barbel on a c'pin (albeit a poor c'pin) and hated every minute of it. I have
another friend, also an experienced barbel fisherman who uses fixed-spools, who
recently played and landed his first barbel on a c'pin and loved it, now an absolute
convert.
Originally I knew that if I had wanted to fish a bigger river
say the Trent, Severn, or Wye, I would need to find out whether my preferred
methods would be useable - obviously it is not worth struggling to fish a big
weight, or fish at 15ft from the bank if the fish are swimmin' on the other
side! So far, I have fished the Trent quite a few times and some of the
particular venues, and conditions, did not lend themselves to my preferred
methods so I changed to a fixed-spool/baitrunner reel setup, no problem - but
at other venues and in other conditions I have managed with my c'pin with no
problem at all. I have also fished the Wye, just once - c'pins were ok as the
water was low, but it was not how I imagine it to be after some
rain.
Using a centrepin for legering
When I am not roaming my
normal method of fishing is to sit as low as possible, with the front of the
rod in a rest parallel to the water, or pointing towards the water if the bank
is high.
I either have the butt of the rod on my thigh or in a
rear-rest, whichever is the most comfortable in the chosen swim, but these
rests are carefully positioned so that the pressure of a relaxed arm does not
unduly cause the rod to dip in the middle and thus affect the tip of the rod. I
sit with my wrist along the handle and my hand always holding the rod/reel with
my thumb/finger on, or near, the reel's rim. Sometimes I have the line looped
over a finger if I think there may be something 'going on down
there'.
Bite detection will be a combination of sight, feel and sound.
Sight - of behaviour of the line at the point it enters the water, and of the
rod tip. Feel - of that electric 'rap' or 'wrench' of the rod tip, of the
electric vibration through the rod, and of the reel responding to the tug of
the line. Sound of the ratchet even on the initial part turn of the reel.
Fishing this way I like to think that I rarely miss fish (well that is the
theory - in practice of course I do), but most certainly nor do I ever get
over-runs.
When the action is slow, or non-existent, I set up as
described, and perhaps not hold the rod at all times. This reduces the bite
detection to sight and sound, but the scream of a c'pin's ratchet is one of my
very favourite noises, albeit then reduced to quiet as the ratchet is
immediately switched off.
Using a centrepin for freelining
When roaming I will trundle
a bait, and likely use the off-the-side cast also to search the water, casting
upstream. But once the bait has hit the water I would keep the line in the
fingers of the left hand, adjusting the movement of the bait through the swim
with a combination of rod position, and by varying the length of line held away
from the reel. I tweak and nudge a bait trying to keep it on what would be its
natural path.
I would not reckon to call this 'rolling' lest it be
mistaken for the 'rolling meat' method - undoubtedly, the finest
exponent of 'rolling meat' for barbel is Ray Walton, and his methods are well
described elsewhere, including on his own site.
Using a centrepin for trotting
Often I read that someone
wants to use a c'pin for trotting, and a c'pin is an ideal reel for this
purpose if ever there was one.
But when using c'pins for trotting is
where there is much contention in my view. I believe there is a lot of
misleading talk about the mechanics of a c'pin, and at this point let's ignore
the fact that a 'true pin' does not have ball-races - that is a separate issue,
discussed later.
Why, oh why, do I read the words "it runs forever" or
"it spins for over a minute"? Even some of 'the experts' say this. Surely a
c'pin needs to be free to revolve but with the speed controlled by the
angler, by the fish, or by the flow? One thing a c'pin does not need is
weight and an action like a flywheel, where momentum of the revolving drum will
overshadow the requirements - you cannot push string after all.
I
believe a c'pin should be free to rotate of course, although worth pointing out
here that a true-pin will run more freely when horizontal than when vertical,
and to start rotating with the minimum of effort applied. This suggests to me
that a free-running lightweight drum is far more important than one that "runs
forever". A test format I've seen used, for comparison purposes, is how many BB
shot it takes to begin the drum moving, although tests for this will be with
the reel vertical. I must admit that this test method does not seem to be so
easy to conduct in practice as it sounds in theory, so I am not sure how valid
it really is, at least that's my conclusion after I did the tests when
reviewing some c'pins.
Incidentally, the free'est c'pin I've ever seen is a Speedia (owned by Alan Tomkins) - when horizontal, a mere breath would start it off.
But on the venues I fish I do not trot very often and I feel I am not competent enough to describe it. So I asked two anglers more expert than I to describe it in slightly different ways for me, although both are adept at trotting for all species - Martin does so in general terms here and Chris more specifically for barbel here
For note about lubrication see this para on cleaning and maintenance
Casting by pulling line from the rings
Pulling line from the
rod/rings obviously has limits of distance, but can be very consistent and
accurate. I would use this method particularly when using an open-end feeder,
especially in streamer weed.
To pull 3ft is comfortable but to pull 4ft
would need elongated arms, and even if managed there would be so much line
'flapping' around that tangles would be a strong possibility.
So, to
pull 3ft with one finger gives 6ft, with two fingers gives 12ft. To pull 3ft
with three fingers (giving 18ft) would often mean a stretch to the next
available ring up the rod. I originally solved this problem by adding another
ring about 3-4in from a convenient ring.
On my (60-70s) early
self-built 11ft rods, when I only used fixed-spool reels, the rods were
conventionally ringed. On my next (70s) self-designed/built 10ft 6in rods I had
a single large butt ring (still often used fixed-spool reels) followed by 2
close-spaced rings (as previously described). On my (90s) purchased 12ft Daiwa
Powermesh rods I replaced the butt ring with 2 smaller close-spaced rings. I
could then pull two fingers (see fig 1) or three fingers (see fig
2) of line (12-18ft) without stretching (and also whilst sitting). My
current self-designed/built rods are on an 11ft Harrison GTi blank, and I have
2 close-spaced rings nearest to the butt - these rods are the optimum design to
suit me.
Yes there is a down-side to this style of casting: flapping
line can wrap itself around the rod and/or rings (see fig 3 normal,
fig 4 wrapped), especially in a wind, and more-so with close-spaced rings
it seems, but as I automatically 'check & clear' the line each time it is
not a problem I worry about. When the action of 'casting & checking &
clearing' becomes a routine it is automatic and something you cease to have to
think about.
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| fig.1 | fig.2 | fig.3 | fig.4 |
If you do not understand
this it means holding line at about 18" or so away from, and at 90 degrees to,
the reel (see fig 5) with the left-hand (fingers), whilst trapping the
line on the rim of the reel with the right-hand (with thumb or finger, however
is comfy). The casting action is made with the rod whilst at the same time
releasing the line trapped by the right-hand, this allows the line to spill off
towards your left-hand and then up the rod - this is the same as a fixed-spool
reel's action. During the cast, and in fact at all times, the left-hand should
move to remain at 90 degrees to the reel.
Yes, there are down-sides :
Twists : Casting produces twists in the line, as with a
fixed-spool reel, but the difference is that unlike fixed-spool reels, the
twists are not taken out when retrieving line.
I had lived with the
twists for years with no real problem, as I often 'removed' them or discarded
line, but that was when I was using Maxima. When I changed to GR60, on
recommendation, it appeared the problem was greater only because the GR60 is
more visible in the air and the twists look like coils - other anglers
commented. If it 'don't look good' then it affects the (my) confidence and I
sought an alternative, a solution.
To use the Wallis cast as my first
choice method was the first alternative. Secondly at the same time, I had
decided to try braid mainline for bite-detection reasons, and having also been
told that the twists caused no problem whatever (although this was with a
certain other braid) this led me to see if a braid mainline would be any
advantage for me. Two seasons on and I am now committed to one braid (actually
PowerPro) whereas some I tried didn't seem to suit me. The extra indications
that the braid gives really opened my eyes which was number one reason to
change, and it doesn't seem to be much affected by twists although I must add
that the Wallis cast is now what I'd use most of the time so this is something
I'll test more when freelining/trundling as I'd possibly use the off-the-side
cast more then.
Line loop : Line can loop around the back (see
figs 6 and 7) of the reel (line-guards/guides are not used by definition),
but again as I automatically 'check & clear' ( see figs 8 and 9)
this each time it is not a problem I worry about;
Line Slip :
Sometimes when raining/wet the line does not slip so easily through your
fingers so casting is impaired, and sometimes line slipping through your
fingers hurts if you have a cut in the crease of a joint. To combat the latter
I did investigate some finger-stalls (stools?) made of rigid material but
dropped that idea.
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| fig.5 | fig.6 | fig.7 | fig.8 | fig.9 |
This 'once mysterious'
casting technique has been written about countless times. I know that trying to
describe an action such as this is difficult, and I shall not attempt another
description here, but all I had ever read about it made it seem such a
complicated action and as such one that I had never contemplated.
Why
need it? well, it is another technique that allows variable distance, but one
that would not suffer from the 'line twist' problems of the 'off-the-side' cast
if using mono mainline.
So I admit that it is only fairly recently (4
seasons ago) that I had started using it, thanks initially to AllanM
of BFW, and now is often my first choice. It was nowhere near as difficult
as I had been (wrongly) led to believe, but as ever an expert always makes it
look easy. But I have to add that to use a c'pin does not require you to be an exponent of the
Wallis cast, since I used c'pins successfully for over 25 years without doing so.
It was one of the few physical things I have ever had trouble
with, but I suppose as with casting a fly, it is easier once you get a feel for
what you are trying to achieve. I had wondered that if I was buying again I
might have opted for a wide-drum rather than the narrow-drum as might have made
the Wallis a bit easier for me - in fact I now believe that is not true, I am
happier with a narrow-drum. I actually suffered from having cast 'off-the-side'
for so long that my fingers tended to naturally pull to the side rather than
in-line with the drum, and I thought that a wide drum may have helped with this
but not so, it is simply a question of practice.
It has been written
that you cannot Wallis cast with a line-guide on the reel. There does not seem
any physical reason for this notion and for sure many have said that it is
incorrect - you can Wallis cast with a line-guide. I tried it with a friend's
reel and yes, it is possible.
It has been written that you cannot Wallis cast with the line coming off the top of the reel. This is incorrect although it is undoubtedly considerably more difficult to do so.
With a fixed-spool reel it
is common to hold the rod with the stem of the reel between your
fingers.
But a c'pin reel-foot is different in that it is designed to
keep the drum as close to the rod as possible. There is then a choice of
whether to hold the rod below the reel with the thumb resting on the outside
rim of the bottom half of the drum (see fig 10), or to hold it 'over the
top' of the fitting, effectively holding both rod and reel at the same time,
and with the thumb resting on the outside rim of the top half of the drum
(see fig 11).
My own preference is the latter, but I also use my
middle finger against the inside of the rim drum when playing a fish,
preferring my thumb helping to exert pressure via the rod (see fig
12).
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| fig.10 | fig.11 | fig.12 |
Loading the centrepin with line
There are two considerations
:
One is how much line to load. A general consensus might seem to
indicate that you use enough line for the method you are going to use. Some use
as little as 25 yds for margin fishing (legering, or maybe freelining); up to
50 yds for fishing a larger venue (legering, or maybe freelining); generally 50
yds or more if trotting. It is often said that if you use a lot of line then
there is reckoned to be a problem with line bedding in - I don't have a problem
with this. But since line will be wound more tightly following banking a fish,
or 'fighting' a snag, than when retrieving fishless it might be wise to pull
off this line and re-wind as a matter of course anyway before resuming
fishing.
I normally load about 80-100 yds on to my c'pins which gives me
all the options, wherever or however I fish, and additionally that I can
discard the last 5 yds or so at any time if I feel there is line damage without
leaving me short. I also use backing (mono, or fly-line backing) since the
'spool' on my c'pins have spacers, in order to minimise the slight kinking
there may be. I wind backing on, distributed across the 'spool', and then join
to the braid, with a double-grinner, sleeving the knot and thus trapping the
cut ends with yellow 1mm sleeving for a visual indication of where the join
is.
Second consideration is whether to have this line coming off the
bottom of the reel (furthest from the rod, requiring anti-clockwise rotation to
retrieve line) which I consider the normal, or to have the line coming off the
top of the reel (nearest to the rod, requiring clockwise rotation to retrieve
line) which is less common but used by some.
Aside from casting,
over-runs are the biggest problem which can cause trouble for the
less-experienced. It is a vicious circle - you want free-running but not so
free it will cause a problem.
Well consider that it is normally all
within the control of your thumb, with an added advantage if the c'pin has a
drag or brake mechanism. If you leave your rod in rests when you might be doing
'other things' - this is where the drag can come in useful.
I have read
that the lack of speed of retrieve is a limiting factor when using a c'pin, but
that is not normally something I would feel was a real problem
Additional rod-related information
All reels are mounted on a
rod by the reel-foot being held by either sliding reel-fittings, or more likely
these days by screw-action reel-seats. It is likely that a screw-action
reel-seat will hold all reels securely without a doubt, although I understand
some reel-feet are too long to fit some reel-seats - it may seem a shame, but
the remedy is simple, carefully cut some off.
Some c'pins have a fairly
short reel-foot and it may be that the sliding reel-fitting might not appear to
hold the reel as securely as is wanted. I have never had a problem with a reel
falling off but that is helped by the way I opt to hold the rod (previously
explained).
A tip is to 'pad out' the fitting, and my way of achieving
this is to add a veneer to the reel rather than to the rod - it is easy to
remove it from the reel if not wanted, but if added to the rod it would be
rather too permanent. This avoids 'defacing' a cherished rod.
Use
iron-on wood veneer, but you cannot use iron-on directly to chrome or brass. So
take a couple of short lengths of veneer and iron these together
adhesive-to-adhesive, but allow to dry in a slight curve rather than flat -
this is in order to nestle into the reel-foot. I glue this double-veneer piece
on the foot using solvent-based 'no-nails', and then trim off excess to the
shape of the foot.
Mechanical features of a
c'pin can include, using my preferred words and definitions :
Pin : This is the actual fixed pin that the drum revolves
around, either directly in the bore of the hub as in a true-pin, or within
fitted ball-races.
Hub : This is the part in the centre of the
reel, within which the pin fits. Either a separate machined part fixed
to the inner plate of the drum in a spoked model, or as an integral part of the
drum in a solid machined model. There are, of course, variations in design
which are not as described.
Clutch/Drag : Inherent in the
way any c'pin is used, it has a drag - and this is your thumb/finger, and
infinitely variable too of course. This is, however, only the case when the
rod/reel is being held.
Some c'pins actually have a drag/brake mechanism
and this is often a friction device inhibiting the rotation. So at this point
it needs the question, why? Well I believe the drag is best set lightly just to
minimise an over-run which can happen if you leave your rod for a moment, where
you could have a problem if a take is positive and the momentum of the drum
will spill line all over the place, and you have to sort that whilst playing
the fish which would likely be intent on heading for the nearest snag etc etc.
Or, if the flow is very strong, the drag may need to be set slightly more
tightly in order that line is not pulled from the reel almost constantly - and
you certainly don't want to arrest that movement by holding the reel's
drum.
For this reason you might feel a drag/clutch is a most important
consideration. The Aerials have an adjustment which effectively pushes a
'thingy' against the pin and gives a braking effect - but the more braking the
more wear! Quite what the bearing ones have I'm not sure but obviously if they
do have a heavier drum and a more free spin then you may need more braking and
maybe leading to more wear if it works on the same
principle.
Ratchet : This is an audible device but not an
anti-reverse. I use mine, but sparingly.
Yes, ratchet-on to hear/feel
that satisfying 'scream' but then ratchet-off immediately - I hate unnecessary
noises, no need to tell all that you have a fish on!
I also adjust the
tension on the spring to reduce the noise.
Handles : Handles are
often offered as an option, and many people choose not to have them. My view is
that unless they actually get in your way for some reason it is sensible to
have them fitted. When trying to retrieve line against a hard-fighting fish, or
even against a snag, then the use of handles is surely the only way.
To
retrieve line when there is no pull on the line then there is a choice, and
this might depend upon the style of fishing being employed at the time. Use the
handles, or 'bat' the rim, or rotate by inserting a finger into a hole in the
side of the drum (if there is such a hole), or between the spokes (if an Aerial
type).
Spool : Not a separate item at all in the normally
accepted sense (as in fixed-spool), but purely a reference term (used in this
text) to that part of the drum on which the line is wound.
Knurled
Drum Rim : This is (apparently) an aid when 'batting' the edge of the drum
when retrieving line, to ensure positive contact. I can see that this could be
an advantage when constantly retrieving line when trotting, but I have to say I
have never had any problems, and I will add that the advantage of the knurling
will be outweighed by the disadvantages.
I would find knurling a
distinct disadvantage for two reasons and would never buy a reel with this
'feature'. Firstly, it is against this rim that thumb/finger-pressure is
applied when playing a fish, and this needs to be smooth. Secondly, it would
inhibit casting 'off-the-side' as line would not be able to flow across a
knurled edge.
Line-Guide/Guard : This is an aid to avoid line
spilling off the side of the drum and getting caught 'round the back' of the
reel foot. I guess it is a personal preference that you either rely on this
device or you learn to overcome any problems by the automatic 'check &
clear' routine.
Drum Diameter : As to the reel's dimensions I
just say that my reels have a drum diameter (measured at the rim) of 4.5" and
an effective 'spool' diameter (around which the line is laid) of about 3.5".
This is OK for me. I wouldn't go for one with less if I was trotting as it
would make for more effort on the retrieve, but in actuality it probably does
not matter that much.
Drum Width : Some reels are available with
different 'spool' widths, sometimes referred to as narrow and wide drum reels.
These vary, it seems, between 5/8" and 1.1/4", or maybe even wider on some
designs. It may be that a wider drum may give less problem with bedding-in of
line as there is more area over which the line is wound, but I feel that choice
of a certain width can be a matter of taste. Obviously a wider drum reel will
be slightly heavier so this should be borne in mind.
Drum/'Spool'
Design : Considering the design of the 'spool', on which the line is wound,
might give another angle to be considered. The Aerials and derivatives have
spacers around which the line is laid. This is good as it saves weight, and
gives the line the ability to dry out (important these days - probably not?). A
downside could be that line beds in more but I do not have a problem
with that in general. Another 'problem' can be that line with any memory does
come off as if kinked every 1", but again I do not have a problem with that in
general, and using backing partially solves this if needed.
The Swallow
on the other hand also has a 'smooth' drum. The Youngs/Masterline range,
although they may look at a glance like Aerials, are not designed in the same
way and the 'spools' are smooth or perforated too. Reverse the perceived ups
and downs of the Aerial and you will see this would be heavier, the line may
not dry out so well, but line may not bed in so much, neither will the line
kink.
Spare Drum/Spools : Some c'pins are offered for sale with
the idea of a 'spare spool' as an extra. But since the 'spool' in this case is
a major part of the reel itself this is, by definition, going to be at a fairly
high price.
note re. Using and changing lines : I generally use
the same line (strength and type) every trip as all of my fishing is for
barbel.
However, there are times when I do want different line - on a
vastly different venue, for example. My solution to this is simple, but is a
compromise.
I made some discs (about 6" dia) of 2mm double-sided
hardboard and some discs (about 5.5" dia) of 6mm MDF, all with well sanded
edges. Carefully glued together to make single and/or double spools and with
bolt/nut thro' the middle which goes in a cordless drill as required. I wind
line on/off these to change and/or reverse line. The down-side is that it is
best done at home so limited if you don't know what you want/need until you get
to the bank.
Types, designs and styles of c'pins
True-Pins or bearings?
: The choice between a 'true-pin' and one with bearings (ball-races) should not
cause undue concern. I am happy with my 'true-pins', having lightweight drums,
not spinning for ages (which is a misunderstood non-requirement previously
discussed), being lightly oiled. Being aware of the possiblility of over-runs
makes you disciplined, and your thumb/finger will be your most valuable asset.
Over-runs are rare but I would be wrong if I said I don't occasionally get them
- but there is usually a reason (or excuse if you prefer).
Pins with
ball-races seem to have heavier drums (but not always), will spin for longer,
and therefore are more likely to produce overruns. But again, this is within
the control of your thumb/finger. Many prominent c'pin users use this design of
reel quite successfully and they cannot be wrong.
Personally I would
opt for the 'true-pin' but that is just me, and I do own/use several. Excluding
used ones, the market-place seemed, a while ago, to have more available with
ball-races than 'true-pin' so difficult, then, to say what I would buy if I had
to replace mine. I would have likely gone for one with ball-races I think in
order not to limit my choice. There, I've just contradicted myself. But I do
think that I would still buy a 'true-pin' if given the option.
So, at
this point I asked an experienced c'pin user, Alan Tomkins, to elaborate
further here
Types (designs) :
There are two main types of c'pin considered here - the spoked models and the
solid (for want of a better word) models, and to a great extent they offer
little difference in use. Both the terms spoked and solid refer to the side of
the reel and not to the 'spool' (around which the line is wound). Price
and aesthetics are important considerations if you want to purchase one, but it
must be remembered that price alone is not a sole indicator of
quality.
But given a similar design, it is obvious that any cheaper
product must have some drawbacks. Putting aside economic arguments such as
location of manufacturing factories etc as that is too involved, I say that the
build quality must be lower in order to achieve a lower price. I have very high
standards of requirement but there is a point at which common sense prevails.
The Purists could well have been a benchmark I judged by at one time, and they
were a joy to hold but were not necessarily going to do the job better. A very
good fisherman I know reckoned the Purists were too heavy and has gone back to
his replicas. Heavy? maybe the fact that they do a lightweight version tells a
tale, but this has little to do with quality.
The spoked models :
These are more expensive to manufacture and assemble than solid models, but to
me they are worth it for the looks alone, although the performance is good too.
They include both true-pins and those with ball-races.
Below say 225.00
(UKp) there are low-end models, Aerial replicas, the Purists and other models
in the Youngs/Masterline range, including the lightweights, the Bob James
'special', and the Wilson Heritage. (note all prices approx list)
Then
there are the top range c'pins made by other companies, such as Chris Lythe,
Gary Mills of Mill Tackle, Paul Witcher, Richard Carter (not available these
days) and some others - absolutely superbly engineered without a doubt but
again, too expensive for my liking ranging up to 350.00 (UKp) and possibly
more.
note. all prices approx and for new reels only. I
leave the second-hand/vintage/collectors market strictly alone for the purposes
of this article.
Overall I think I will stick with my Aerial
replicas, and the current Fred Crouch non-limited Jet edition model which I am
now using and testing, is very good indeed for the price.
Putting aside damage by
abuse, one possible drawback of the 'spoked reels', but this is more a question
of aesthetics than an actual problem, is that often the drum could be seen to
have a wobble. Assuming no damage, then this is largely due to the adjustments
of the spokes, a task which is certainly not easy - if you have ever tried this
you will know what I mean. A bit of time and this wobble can usually be
eliminated if you have that sort of mind, and ability - and a lot of luck. But
you can get it 'just so' and then a final tweak ruins it again.
The
solid models : Solid models are those where the face of the reel is as one
machined piece from the rim down to the hub, and would in most cases be
perforated to save weight and often to enhance appearance. Seemingly popular
designs of these solid models include the Adcock-Stanton, the Magnum, the
Swallow and the recently introduced one bearing the name of Pete Reading. More
recently Okuma have brought out three c'pins, one a true pin and the others with
bearings, and it seems that these have gained some favour especially as they
are very reasonably priced - in order to achieve this
competitive price it 'appears' the manufacturing methods include casting and CNC machining
rather than turning from bar-stock.
Rotating drum - 90
deg : A variation of the spoked designs are those with an additional
mechanism which allows that the whole drum assembly can be rotated through 90
degrees and locked for casting (where the line spills off the 'spool' straight
up the rod similar to a fixed-spool reel) and can be rotated back immediately
for retrieving,
The casting action is similar to that previously described in the 'off-the-side' casting paragraph,
and shares the same line-twist problems.
There
is an inherent difficulty in designing such a mechanism without compromises, and this has been achieved
with variable success. There are cheaper reels where the mechanism is simple but the reel is effectively
stood off from the rod a bit too far for comfortable use, but the best by far being
the Youngs/Masterline Rolling-Pin, heavily influenced by Ray Walton, superbly engineered but again,
too expensive for me.
I'd say that this design is specifically attractive to those
favouring the 'rolling' and roving approach, which is after all what it was designed for, but
not in my view a requirement of a c'pin for all-round use.
The c'pins I use are Match Aerial (replicas)
In these c'pins, the
ratchet has a pawl which is pushed by a spring against a toothed wheel. The
pawl is, by design, a softer material than the toothed wheel it acts against so
it needs replacing and the wheel does not. I had some spares privately made, as
I did have trouble with purchasing replacements but that is a separate story
(one you may enjoy at another time). The spring acting against the ratchet pawl
can be tweaked so as to make a 'nicer' noise - less harsh. They have a drag
mechanism which acts (rubs) against a recess in the pin, and which in theory
could wear the pin if used to excess for too long, but in practice the
wear would be minimal. I find that I back off the adjuster until the
compression spring loosens, and then increase again to just put the spring in
compression - balance between freeness of running and reducing wear on the
spindle. It still runs freely but not with so much chance of
over-run.
They run freely enough and continue to do so if lubricated
properly. I sat and spun mine for ages when I first bought them, and then by
setting up a motorised spinner, until I was happy that they were 'run in',
although I cannot say that was a necessity in reality - or more bluntly might
have been a complete waste of time. Recently I saw running in in a totally
different light, the manufacturers of the Fred Crouch Gem Collection actually
applied a light liquid abrasive to the pin and hub, and used an air-line to run
the reel to a very fast speed, allowed it to relax and slow, clean it and
repeat until when lubricated 'properly' it would run correctly - maybe akin to
several months or seasons worth of use?
Getting the 'spin for ages'
misconception into perspective, I would say that when cleaned, adjusted, and
oiled as described mine will spin for 20-30 seconds only and that is how I like
it to be. I could replace the oil with GT85/WD40 (see here
) and this would increase the spin duration enormously but that is not a good
move, nor a necessity. Beware that by using WD40 a second-hand reel could be
made to appear to be running more smoothly than maybe is the case - whether
this is deliberate or not it can pay to check.
Another adjustment is the
screw acting on the end of the pin - adjust carefully until no movement in/out
and then back off about a 'gnats'.
Most of these are a question of feel
and cannot be explained to a 'non-feeler'. I would hope you understand
feel.
Finally, to say that my favourite pins are 30 years old and I'd
use them almost exclusively. I do not fish as often these days but I have to
say that mine bear close inspection and they show no signs of wear on or about
the pin. Cleaning, wiping and oiling after *every* trip keeps them in top nick.
Putting this wear factor into perspective however, it would not stop the reel
performing and neither would you experience any undue difficulties in use. It
is not a safety or performance problem like it would with a worn bearing/part
of a car or motorcycle, and there is no MOT test on reels! I like the reel to
look used and that is indicated by the finish on the rim wearing - it gives it
a bit of character as it is from use and not abuse.
Cleaning and maintenance - Match Aerial (replicas)
I remove the drum and
lubricate the spindle after every trip.
When used for legering, as most
of my barbel fishing is, lubrication is a light oiling with 3-in-1 oil, 3 drops
When used for trotting I began to
favour GT85 lubricant, although I had not tested it over a long enough
period, certainly a better bet than WD40 though. But a downside to GT85 is
that it also is in an aerosol, and is so thin and liquid that I believe it might
spread and contaminate fingers and probably bait. So I have reverted to 3-in-1 for the future.
Just a note here that I believe WD40 actually has a detrimental affect in that it is a
good penetrating oil but not a good lubricator, much of it evaporates anyway.
The effect would be a 'dry' bearing surface which would be more likely to wear.
If there is a chance there might be dirt or grit present I give my reels a
proper clean. I remove the drum and put the whole lot in the sink with washing
up liquid (yes, line and all), rinse well, rinse again, dry (use hair drier if
careful not to overheat), lubricate, and put away.
I would not hesitate
to recommend the new replica Aerials but it is, as with most things, a matter
of taste and feel. I would definitely buy them again! I did toy fairly recently with
the idea of buying two new reels (I always buy in twos, sadly) - maybe changing
to any other 'decent' design - but common sense prevailed, as I wanted
them rather than needed them.
Choosing a centrepin - what would you look for?
Given all of the above, how
would you choose a c'pin?
Decide upon the use to which you will put
the c'pin , but make sure your options are open though.
Particular
features I look for, either to have or avoid as required, are : whether
true-pin or ball-races; weight; colour; knurling on the drum's rim; drag and
ratchet; handles; line-guide.
Does one look right? does it feel right?
does the weight seem about right? does it feel right on your rod?
Does
it run nicely; does it have handles, and if so are they in the right place for
you?
I always like two of everything, for the sole reason of liking
identical setups for familiarity - important to me but not necessarily to
others. This follows on to the price which, although not the single most
important point on its own, is a contributory factor of course.
There
are no rights and wrongs - You pays your money and you takes your choice.
Further centrepin-related information :
A new article (Feb 06) specifically about
Grice & Young
reels by Rob Keywood.
paul (paul4barbus) whiteing
v3.2 article updated 3.4.06
© paul whiteing 2006