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  #11  
Old 17-07-2017, 23:10
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Dave Taylor Dave Taylor is offline
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Joe, I didn't make them on a commercial basis and gave quite a few to mates who, at that time, like me were pining for the old unavailable Thamesly.
I heard at the time from a tackle dealer that Thamesly were reluctant to sell the copyright and tooling on. Seems as though there are a few lookalikes now though. ( ref Anthony's post).
I don't go fishing without a couple in the bag.
I made a half pint version for hemping nearbank swims but they were just to unwieldy, ... even on a broomstick rod, and the last thing you want to be doing is dumping a load of hemp in the wrong place at the start of a session!
If we ever meet up on the bank you've welcome to an old DT bespoke model
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  #12  
Old 18-07-2017, 01:01
John Walker John Walker is offline
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Andrew dont be put off by the noise of a large heavy dropper going in on a larger type river mate, the barbel know thats a pile of feed coming in and it dont take long for things to quiet down and fish to feed mate, the big symos are real heavy when full but zooms down to the riverbed before dropping its load but you need a powerful rod to cast these out more than 25 yards, you knowyour freebies are gonna hit the mark safely and accurately without spreading out, they only usually scare small river barbel and even those eventually connect the splash with dinner on the table
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  #13  
Old 18-07-2017, 09:08
Joe Winstanley Joe Winstanley is offline
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Thanks Dave - I will hold you to that

I can imagine a half pint would be v.unwieldy - but handy for those swims where the dropper can be lowered at a rods length.

I actually use a (3.75lb) stiff marker rod and marker braid for baitdropping, which for a dinsmore/thamesley sounds like overkill but it works very well, you can really feel the dropper hit the bottom and the stiffness of the rod tip helps to underarm it out further and more accurately.
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  #14  
Old 18-07-2017, 09:58
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Dave Taylor Dave Taylor is offline
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Yes Joe,... far better to use a rod that's pokey enough for accurate casting.
The problem I found with larger droppers ( and I do use them on occasion) is that the bigger the surface area the heavier the weight has to be to counteract the kiting effect. This meant that the half pint model needed 3 oz of attached lead to drop straight down in strong flows and deep swims.
I've watched shop brought banjo types kite 6 feet across the swim and often land on their side and not opening.
Simple remedy is to replace the existing little lead with a more suitable inline jobby.
The teardrop versions are less inclined to kite but a Thamesly type will go straight down because the weight to surface area ratio is perfect.

I'm surprised none have mentioned not to bounce a dropper in fast flows ( for the uninitiated) which would mean your freebies,... especially maggots,. will end up in the harbour!
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  #15  
Old 18-07-2017, 16:07
Andrew Leishman Andrew Leishman is offline
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This is all great information and I'm nearly all set for my first dropper feeding experience, just one last question, what's the best type of rod to use with a dropper? I'm thinking maybe one of my 3lb carp rods for the rigidity..
I'm currently off shore in the north sea and unable to stream videos due to server blockers so gutted I'm unable to watch that link but will be straight on it once I'm able to do so, so thank you for the post, it looks really interesting!!
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  #16  
Old 18-07-2017, 16:09
Andrew Leishman Andrew Leishman is offline
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Jo, Sorry mate, I missed your info initially but I've taken it on board now regarding rod spec, so thank you again!!
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