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Combi rig advice

R

Russell Emms

Senior Member
Would like to pick your brains on this subject. Should the fluro be of a stiff nature, what bs should the braid/fluro be, is a blob of putty essential to cover knot (like to use a stick mix on hook link) and what sort of hook link materials are people using??
Thanks for any help.
 
Russell Emms said:
Would like to pick your brains on this subject. Should the fluro be of a stiff nature, what bs should the braid/fluro be, is a blob of putty essential to cover knot (like to use a stick mix on hook link) and what sort of hook link materials are people using??
Thanks for any help.
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Hello Russell
I have only really got this right(or at least i think so ;)) this season. What i believe is the best way to make a combi-rig is to use a stiff flourocarbon and a very short 2-3 inch length of similar diameter braid.
The whole idea is that you have a stiff and dense flouro link that will sit on the bottom and a short supple link to which your bait is attatched, to hopefully give a more natural presentation.
I tend to use a fluorocarbon line which is 10lb with a 15lb braid link. The knot is very neat and tidy and i have used a small blob of sinking putty on the knot, but cannot say whether it makes a difference.
If you use similar diameter materials then the knot is much neater and stronger imo.

Regards
Dave
 
I use combi links a fair bit. Nearly always use 17lb x-line for the "boom" section and 15lb sink link for the supple bit. On faster rivers ie tidal trent I use a small swivel to join the two materials together as theres less chance of tangles, whereas on the trickling flow of the lea I use an albright knot. Both as strong as each other as far as I'm concerned. The swivel can negate the need for putty owing to the inherent weight. The dimensions of the rig vary from river to river too. On the trent it would be a 6-8ft "boom", on smaller rivers usually 2-3ft. Braid section is usually 3-6".
 
One thing i have realised is to keep the braid link as short as possible as i don't feel it copes well with been rubbed against snags.

Dave
 
Robert Edwards said:
I use combi links a fair bit. Nearly always use 17lb x-line for the "boom" section and 15lb sink link for the supple bit. On faster rivers ie tidal trent I use a small swivel to join the two materials together as theres less chance of tangles, whereas on the trickling flow of the lea I use an albright knot. Both as strong as each other as far as I'm concerned. The swivel can negate the need for putty owing to the inherent weight. The dimensions of the rig vary from river to river too. On the trent it would be a 6-8ft "boom", on smaller rivers usually 2-3ft. Braid section is usually 3-6".
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Very similar to the set-up I use on the Trent Robert. Anywhere between 2.5-6ft of 16lb Pro Clear (similar diameter to other brands in 12lb strength) tied to a small swivel and 4-6" of 12lb Drennan sink braid (15lb in some conditions).
If there's a lot of extra water on, I use 15lb Pro-tough instead of Pro-clear.
I use it whether fishing casters, pellets or boillies and have found it very reliable.

I use regularly use fluorocarbon for short hook links when carp, tench and chub fishing but have never found it necessary for barbel.
 
Whatever happened to the days, when all we had was a quill float, tub of shot, and a packet of hooks. :)
 
Think the actual intended use of the rig is not what it appears to be being used for, that being anti tangle with a natural acting bait, as I understand it the flourocarbon being used for its sinking and not being seen properties !!
have used the combi for carp and tench and the best way I have found is to use the Allbright not, check out the Korda site, has a step by step guide on how to do it.
 
Derek:), what happened is we found better ways to enable us to catch more barbel mate:D, this past 18+ years saw me bringing more barbel on the bank than i did in the 50 years in total before:)
purpose built rods totally suited to the job, good lines and hooks so on and so on
we aint never had it so good, only bad bit from a selfish veiw from me is theres so many more guys fishing for those barbel nowadays:):):):)
 
20lb seaguer fluorocarbon to 2-3" of either gardner trickster heavy braid or kryston ultra braid. I always use an Albright knot, once mastered it will NEVER let you down. I wouldn't use sink braid, it doesn't knot well and frays and weakens and could cost you fish after it has caught a few. I use sink braid as a hooklink with complete confidence on the Yorkshire rivers but I don't knot it (knotless knot, figure of eight loop).I never use putty, i'm happy that the materials I use sink and will give a natural presentation.

I can't recommend these components enough. I've caught 100s of trent barbel and never been broken! (Mind you I've never hooked a cat....;))

Good luck!

PS in answer to another trent related thread - on the lower very rocky tidal I use a leader of 20lb amnesia Albright knotted to my 30lb power pro slick. I attach my feeder to a large bore run ring which easily passes over the knot in case of breakage so it is safe. Attach the hooklink to a swivel with a big tulip bead type thing covering it. Simple, safe and very effective.

PPS It doesn't make sense to use fluorocarbon in less than 15lb for a combi rig. 10lb is far too weak in my opinion. It also defeats the object - I use flouro for it's weight and sinking qualities not it's supposed invisibility - so 20lb gives a more effective presentation in my opinion as it sinks like a brick and you know that if you hook a really big barbel it is like tow rope and won't let you down.
 
John Walker said:
Derek:), what happened is we found better ways to enable us to catch more barbel mate:D, this past 18+ years saw me bringing more barbel on the bank than i did in the 50 years in total before:)
purpose built rods totally suited to the job, good lines and hooks so on and so on
we aint never had it so good, only bad bit from a selfish veiw from me is theres so many more guys fishing for those barbel nowadays:):):):)
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Absolutely spot on, I've been out of fishing for a few years and the standard of kit is great, plus all the help little rig bits etc.

Lots of really good advice and help, really do appreciate all of it....even the negative bits:D
 
i got a similar impression when i came back to freshwater fishing 30 odd years ago, drove up to the old MAC tackleshop in greenford and looked at the carp gear and never had a clue what i was looking at, i still thought herons was the only bite alarm available:D:D
also looked at a bivvy and equally amazed by it, long gone was a strong canvas umbrella with an old tarpaulin slung over it and nailed down:D:D
and the small items well WHATS THOSE? :eek::eek::eek::eek::)
 
John Walker said:
i got a similar impression when i came back to freshwater fishing 30 odd years ago, drove up to the old MAC tackleshop in greenford and looked at the carp gear and never had a clue what i was looking at, i still thought herons was the only bite alarm available:D:D
also looked at a bivvy and equally amazed by it, long gone was a strong canvas umbrella with an old tarpaulin slung over it and nailed down:D:D
and the small items well WHATS THOSE? :eek::eek::eek::eek::)
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OMG John you have taken me back, herons, canvas brolly's,,,,,,,,,, how about tank suits for warmth and tank aerials for rods ?
Those herons were a nightmare, false bleeps all night a lamp in the box that would light up half of London oh and the lead, tripping over the b****y thing,,,,,,,,,,,carping with no internet, no proper gear, how lucky folks are these days eh.
 
Nick 1st time i saw a tank suit was after i reurned to coarse fishing, before that it was duffel coats and a parafin heater with a windbreak set up around the brolly and tarp so the heat stayed in the brolly entrance mate, i do remember tank ariels but i used to finish off my own built cane rods for about 25bob from jw martins in islington, i spent as much time with the guvnor as possible as i just loved soaking up the knowledge he had:)
 
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